The Cotton Campaign, a coalition of labor rights NGOs, independent unions, brands and retail associations, has called on the Uzbek government and the cotton sector to publicly reaffirm their commitment to providing independent monitoring and reporting on labor rights in the cotton sector following the incident .
It was alleged that the attack on Uzbekistan Forum for Human Rights founder and director Umida Niyazova and a journalist occurred at the same time as intimidation and pressure on independent labor monitors escalated, negatively impacting government and industry efforts could attract workers from global brands.
The Cotton Campaign said the duo cut short their trip after being intimidated, insulted and accused of organizing information attacks against Uzbekistan.
The Textile Association of Uzbekistan (Uztextileprom) told Just Style: “In recent years, Uzbekistan has made significant progress in combating forced labor and addressing human rights violations in the cotton industry. As an association of textile manufacturers, our members strive to continually improve conditions and are committed to promoting a fair, open and transparent market.
“As we open our doors to international scrutiny, we reiterate that there is absolutely no place for violence or intimidation. While we cannot comment on specific cases, we urge local authorities to thoroughly investigate all allegations of illegality and intimidation.”
However, Allison Gill, legal director at Global Labor Justice, host of the Cotton Campaign, said: “This outrageous attempt to intimidate Niyazova and Madrakhimova raises alarm in Uzbekistan, ready to comply with international supply chain rules.”
She added: “If Uzbekistan wants to demonstrate its willingness to participate in global supply chains that are paying increasing attention to labor rights, it is important that labor rights monitors and workers can monitor and report on conditions without fear of intimidation, harassment or surveillance to have to.” “
The Cotton Campaign claimed that the April 18 attack took place against the backdrop of what it called “escalating harassment of human rights activists in Uzbekistan,” with the organization claiming it was having “a chilling effect on labor rights oversight that is undermining the trust of global buyers.” could undermine.” when sourcing from Uzbekistan”.
Since the lifting of the Uzbek cotton pledge not to use Uzbek cotton, the Cotton Campaign has engaged the government and industry, as well as global brands, to promote responsible sourcing from Uzbekistan.
It says: “This approach can provide access to global markets and in turn provide opportunities for sustainable economic growth and decent work in Uzbekistan’s cotton and textile industries.”
“However, for this to become a reality, Uzbekistan must demonstrate its commitment to international standards for human and labor rights in supply chains. Full independent monitoring and reporting on labor rights is a fundamental element of a sustainable and attractive cotton industry.”
Nate Herman, senior vice president of policy at the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), said: “Freedom of speech, movement and association are fundamental to a sustainable cotton and textile industry, and we urge the government of Uzbekistan to ensure this to ensure that independent monitors allow them to investigate and report on labor rights without fear of reprisal.”
The Cotton Campaign claims that two additional harassment incidents occurred the week before. In January, an Interior Ministry official reportedly threatened an Uzbek Forum observer with criminal charges, saying the observer’s life was in danger because he had worked with farm workers at the cotton company Indorama Agro and reported labor rights violations there.
Bennett Freeman, co-founder of the Cotton Campaign and former US Assistant Secretary of State for Democracy, Human Rights and Labor, added: “Having eliminated systemic, state-imposed forced labor in the harvest, Uzbekistan now has the opportunity to attract responsible sourcing from global brands. This would help expand and reward best practices among cotton companies that are already innovating and investing in training and cutting-edge technology.
“But to seize this opportunity, Uzbekistan must allow human rights defenders to carry out their vital work without restrictions.”
In March 2024, the International Textile Manufacturers Federation and the International Apparel Federation announced that a joint congress would be held September 8-10 in Samarkand, Uzbekistan to broaden the view of the country’s booming textile and apparel industry.
In February, the Uztextileprom association told Just Style it welcomed an investigation into its reforms after a report alleged a resurgence of forced labor during the country’s 2023 cotton harvest.
“Uzbek cotton sector urged to protect activists after alleged attack” was originally created and published by Just Style, a brand owned by GlobalData.
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