Shinobu Namae’s entry into the culinary world was no “fantasy”. It was purely a matter of survival – “I needed to make money,” he said with a laugh.
“The easiest way to get a job for a university student was then to be a dishwasher. That’s how I started my career.”
It wasn’t long before Namae was “thrown” onions and garlic to peel in his free time at the restaurant. Although it was not a glamorous job, he enjoyed it.
“There are not many jobs that give an immediate reaction in response to your work. If you serve delicious food, you can see it on the faces of the customers,” he said. CNBC Make It.
“It’s a very, very nice job to be in the kitchen and see people happy.”
It is an ability to feel for others and make others feel that they are cared for. It is a very important part of being a chef in a restaurant.
Shinobu Namae
Chef at L’Effervescence
Thus began a love story that saw Namae climb the kitchens of Japan and England for seven years before opening L’Effervescence in Tokyo 13 years ago.
The restaurant, which highlights Japanese products using modern European culinary techniques, has been awarded three Michelin stars – for three years in a row.
Most recently, Namae was awarded the “Icon” award for its contributions to the world of food at the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 event His restaurant was ranked 44th on the list.
The 50-year-old chef tells CNBC Make It about his culinary philosophy and what motivates him to keep learning.
From politics to food
Before falling in love with cooking, Namae studied politics at Keio University in Tokyo — a field she said has parallels in the food world.
“I’ve always been very interested in humanity and what makes us human…Politics is all about understanding the relationship between people, communities and nations,” he said.
The interior of L’Effervescence. The restaurant claims that its sources of electricity are sustainable, such as the use of wood collected from the rusting of the forest for cooking.
Being in the food industry helped him deepen that understanding. Food cultures may vary, but what is universal is the desire to connect with others and feel joy through food, he said.
“We can entertain through our ability … to consume or serve fancy food in a great atmosphere,” Namae said.
“But it is a skill to listen for others and make others feel that they are taken care of. It is a very important part of being a chef in a restaurant.”
That is why he believes that it is the “fundamental ability” of humans – not only chefs – to take care of something that takes a person to greater heights.
Most people get into a narrow mindset because they focus on techniques and details [of dishes]. These are beautiful things, but we also need to take care of our surroundings.
Shinobu Namae
Chef, L’Effervescence
“It’s the starting point for my work as a chef: If we don’t take care of the ingredients, we don’t cook well. If we don’t take care of our staff, we don’t have a strong team and we’ll be in trouble Namae said.
“If we don’t care about the customer – when a chef cooks only what he likes or likes … the business will not be successful.”
Gastronomy ethics
This “fundamental skill” is what drives Namae’s focus on ethical and sustainable gastronomy — which also “starts with care,” he said.
Although he works in a closed kitchen in Nishiazabu, Tokyo, Namae said his mind travels “much wider” to the major crises in the world and considers his mind. impact on our food resources.
“Most people become narrow-minded because they focus on techniques and details [of dishes]. These are beautiful things, but we also need to take care of our surroundings as well,” said Namae.
That’s why all the ingredients used in L’Effervescence – down to its soy sauce – are sourced from 100 local farmers, producers and hunters.
Namae’s sustainable ethos is also evident in its signature dish ‘Fixed Point’ – a whole turnip with no wasted parts, slow-cooked for four hours, with brioche, ham and parsley.
L’Effervescence’s signature dish “Fixed Point” features a whole turnip slow-cooked for four hours, with brioche, ham and parsley.
Nathalie Cantacuzino
The chef’s passion for reducing the impact of fine dining on the climate led him to participate in WWF Japan’s initiatives to reduce illegal fishing.
Most recently, he graduated from the University of Tokyo with a master’s degree in agricultural science.
But even after all he has achieved, Namae says the work of understanding humanity through food is never done.
“If I could, I would like to continue working like the legendary Jiro-san, who is still behind the counter making sushi even at 97 years old,” he said, referring to world-renowned chef Jiro Ono. who was presented in the documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi”.
“Never stop discovering – that’s the hard part as a chef, but also a very, very exciting thing.”
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